93 Wine Advocate
The 2018 Pur Oger Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, with only 2,000 bottles produced, unfurls from the glass with notes of white flowers, lemon oil, blanched almonds and ripe orchard fruits. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it's perfectly balanced, with a vinous texture and a long, saline finish. Vinified in stainless steel, it was matured under cork and disgorged with a dosage of 4.1 grams per liter. While the 2013 and 2017 vintages were not produced, the 2018 vintage showcases the meticulous craftsmanship of this limited release.

This house in the commune of Avize (Côte des Blancs) produces bright, fresh and finely crafted Champagnes that truly impressed me. Olivier Bonville, who took over the family estate in 1996, has an exceptional ability to express the unique character of each commune and terroir, a testament to his meticulous work in the vineyard and the cellar. A strong advocate of aging Champagnes under cork for several years before release, Olivier ensures that the house’s Champagnes are always marked by their finesse, purity and tension, displaying elegance and refinement.

Our Tasting Note (2016):  For me this was the most powerful of the 3 Pur we tasted, though you could argue I am splitting hairs to an extent. Med gold color here too. A thick, persistent mousse of tiny bubbles. Also a pronounced nose of red apples, lemons and limes and their rinds, an intriguing orange blossom note, the malo plays in the back more, a touch of biscuit here too. The palate has med+ acidity and body, the pronounced flavors sail into a long, fresh, mineral and fruit finish. Also outstanding, and this was tasted out of order as we asked to try it after Les Belle Voyes!

Bonville’s “Pur Oger,” from plantings in the Les Noyerots and Les Rumigny vineyards, showcases this cru’s generosity and roundness in comparison to the “Pur Mesnil”—a reflection of the richer topsoil to be found here. Like the “Pur Mesnil,” this spends five full years on its lees after alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in steel. Elegant yet ample, with notes of pit fruits and a classic pastry-like element, it offers spectacular balance and poise on its relatively broad frame.