Domaine Roulot Poruzot 1er Meursault 2022
Domaine Roulot Poruzot 1er Meursault 2022
Drinking Window 2026 - 2050
The 2022 Meursault Les Porusots 1er Cru is from a warm micro-climate, so it must be picked slightly earlier. The very promising bouquet is beautifully defined with quite minerally green apple and Alpine stream scents, taut and focused, almost Puligny-like. The palate is well-balanced with a very well-judged bead of acidity. Certainly very elegant in style yet persistent on the finish, this Meursault is approachable yet will also have the capacity to age.
- By Neal Martin on October 2023
Jean-Marc Roulot was at a meeting with architects when I visited. He plans to construct a new rear building to increase barrel space, which will enable him to extend the duration of barrel aging and separate the white and the red vinification. Here, they feel that the 120mm of rain that fell in Meursault during the weeklong spell of showers at the end of June saved the vintage, benefiting from two or three spells of heavy downpours instead of one deluge, which would have resulted in much of the water running off. The harvest began on August 25 until September 5, commencing with younger vines in various plots where they observed rapid escalation in alcohol levels. Alcohol levels are between 12.7% and 13.2% without adjustment, and all the wines were racked just before harvest. At the time of my visit at the end of October, they were in stainless steel, with bottling planned for February or March. I tasted through the complete range of 2022s and 2021s in bottle, the depleted volumes of the latter meaning that they were bottled en magnum the previous June and July. It was a fascinating contrast between those two dichotomous vintages, and it was certainly not the case that one trumped the other. It depends on the cuvée. I often feel that Roulot’s “heart” lies in his exceptional articulation of Meursault Villages, which are advantaged under global warming. The Meix Chavaux and Narvaux deserve a small flotilla of superlatives. Within the Premier Crus, I was smitten by the Clos des Bouchères, which had the gall to outshine Les Perrières, though the Les Charmes will fight it out for supremacy once in bottle.
The 2022 Meursault 1er Cru Porusot opens in the glass with aromas of minty pear, white flowers, freshly baked bread and citrus zest, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure palate that's precise and saline. This is one of the most elegant, charming wines in the range this year.
-William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Jean-Marc Roulot seemed happy with his 2022 portfolio, a vintage that has the merits of combining high quality with normal quantity, narrowly avoiding spring frosts, thanks to dry, windy weather. The order of the day here is crushing before pneumatic pressing, with pressure increasing in small increments to deliver a large juice yield for comparatively little pressure. In the cellar, as has been the case for several years, Roulot is using less new oak, adding ceramic vessels and foudres. Everything I tasted was, as usual, on the lees in stainless steel, where the wines spend six months after their first year in barrel. The other news at this address, even if it's outside the purview of this publication, is that Roulot is producing a series of eaux de vie de Marc de Bourgogne from his different lieux-dits, which makes for a fascinating comparative tasting, just as it's fascinating to compare their vinous equivalents side by side.
