On his 1787 visit to Piemonte, Thomas Jefferson found Gattinara to be a sparkling Nebbiolo. Roberto Conterno has honored that legacy with a pure Nebbiolo sparkling rosé made by the costly Méthode Champenoise. The wine is both rare and exciting.

On that trip, homas Jefferson abandoned his carriage in Nice, France, to cross the Alps by mule. His destination? Piemonte to drink wine.

In Vercelli, he drank a bottle of Gattinara at an inn and described it “as sweet as the silky Madeira, as astringent on the palate as Bordeaux, and as brisk as champagne.”

At that time, Gattinara was made from Nebbiolo, just as it is today. But it was also sparkling, as a result of the barrels being hammered shut during the fermentation process. Jefferson liked the wine enough to try to bring some home, but it sadly broke in transit.

As the owner (since 2018) of Gattinara’s most iconic estate, Nervi, Robert Conterno honors Jefferson’s legacy with his own sparkling Nebbiolo. Named “Jefferson,” it’s made to Champagne standards, spending 36 months on the lees in bottle. Its very light 1.5-gram dosage would qualify it as Extra Brut in Champagne.

Made with Roberto’s characteristic perfectionism, the 2019 Jefferson easily bears comparison to any of the world’s other great sparkling wines, including Champagnes. And it is a must-buy for all Nebbiolo lovers.

It’s too early for the reviews of the 2019, but below is Monica Larner’s review of the 2018 below.

Wine Advocate: 93 Points
Here's an exciting addition to the Conterno portfolio. Roberto Conterno has long wanted to add a classic-method sparkling wine to his portfolio, and his recent acquisition of the historic Nervi estate in Gattinara awarded him this opportunity. A new chapter opens with the Conterno Nervi 2018 Rosé Metodo Classico. A pure expression of Nebbiolo, this first edition sees three grams of residual sugar that imparts a gentle touch of softness over fresh aromas of white cherry, wild rose and grapefruit. Those fruity tones are neatly framed by elegant mineral shadings. The wine's beading is tight, lively and almost spicy on impact. About 90% of the fruit for this wine is sourced from outside vineyards, with the remaining coming from the estate. Drink 2022 - 2030. 93 points. Monica Larner - Wine Advocate (Dec 01, 2021)