Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Rouge Clos du Roy 2022
Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Rouge Clos du Roy 2022
Marsannay Rouge Clos du Roy 2022 94VM/92JM
Sylvain Pataille
(92-94) Vinous
The 2022 Marsannay Clos du Roy has a very well-defined bouquet with black cherries and wild strawberries, hints of inkwell and brine joining the chorus line with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, taut and fresh, with a very elegant, poised finish. About as good a Marsannay as you will find in this vintage. - By Neal Martin on November 2023
The titular winemaker was away when I dropped in at their rather cozy cellar in Marsannay, but his brother Laurent, who incidentally makes wine under his own name, was on hand. He guided me through their wide range based around Aligoté, Pataille being the vanguard of the Les Aligoteur movement, not to mention his enticing array of site-specific Marsannay cuvées. Laurent Pataille looks much like his brother with those thick curly locks, initially more taciturn than Sylvain but soon chatting away. These are low-intervention wines with minimal and occasionally no use of sulfur. Many are aged for the first year in wooden foudres before being racked into used barrels. Pataille could not remember the exact picking date, except that harvest started in early September. I found a couple of cuvées just a little too natural for my liking, which set a few alarm bells ringing, while others were exceptionally fine and remain excellent value-for-money to boot.
90-92 pts Jasper Morris
A hedonistic deep purple colour. The nose is quite backward but obviously all the fruit is there. A very dense red berry fruit, minerals behind. Still unknit but on the road to becoming spectacular. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted: November 2023.
- Size: 2.25 ha (5.56 ac)
- Variety: Pinot Noir
- Vine Age: Planted in 1952, 1965, 1978, 2001, 2003-6
- Terroir: Moderate slope facing east to southeast. Gravelly (grèzes litée), slightly reddish, iron-rich soil (“Rabbit Earth"). 270-meters elevation.
- Viticulture: Certified organic, biodynamic methods
- Vinification: 100% whole-cluster pressing, indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 18 months in barrel, 5-6 months blending and settling in stainless steel tank, minimal sulfur additions only at bottling.
Etymology: Roy is the ancient French spelling of Roi, meaning king.
This Clos in Chenôve was originally called “Le Clos des Ducs”, as it was a possession of the Dukes of Burgundy. The vineyard was renamed Clos du Roy in 1477, after the defeat at Nancy of the Duke of Burgundy, Charles the Bold, and the subsequent annexation to the Kingdom of France of his lands.
Site: Clos du Roy is located in Chenôve. It is the northernmost lieu-dit in the Marsannay appellation. The vineyard sits at 270-meters elevation. The slope is moderate. It faces slightly south of east.
Geology: The upper portion of Clos du Roy sits on a large deposit of the light, gravelly, and calcium-rich grèzes litée. This deposit sits on top of a bedrock of White Oolite limestone at the top of the slope, and red sandy marl towards the bottom. The lowest portion of the slope consists of ancient alluvium from the old Ouche riverbed.
Soil: The depth of soil is variable throughout the vineyard. The soil of Clos du Roy is poor, but very rich in iron and gravelly.
