Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spätlese 2023
Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spätlese 2023
96 pts Vinous
Drinking Window 2034 - 2070
The 2023 Riesling Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese is from a geologically complex site that has loess, loam, shale, weathered sandstone and volcanic formations, the moderating influence of the river also means that botrytis is possible. Spätlese and Auslese are harvested together but selected in the vineyard. Golden and gently botrytised fruit goes into Spätlese. This charms with a touch of crushed blackcurrant foliage and ripest, juiciest Reine Claude plum, all edged with citrus. Beautifully taut, vividly concentrated, yet no heaviness, just light-footed, dancing, playful and oh so balanced. (Sweet) - By Anne Krebiehl MW on July 2024
Cornelius Dönnhoff recounts 2023 at the domaine: “Fruit set was good, and we could see early on that this might be a bigger harvest, and in summer, we started reducing yields relatively early. This, with canopy management, was key as the vines were vigorous. In July, the weather changed, temperatures went down, and we had continuous showers in July and August, and our well-ventilated canopies paid off. We also had interrow ground cover to help pull moisture out of the soil. We had pokered right. It ensured the grapes could dry off, and we could get on top of the immense disease pressure.” Later in August, the weather changed again, ringing in stable weather. “September was warm and had high sunshine hours, not a cloud from morning to night. This accelerated the ripening and compensated for the cool August. The thinned-out fruit and airy canopy meant healthy grapes and no botrytis.” Dönnhoff notes that in wetter years like 2023, his steep and rocky Riesling sites are at an advantage with their excellent drainage and poor soils, curbing vine vigor, resulting in a harvest of healthy fruit. Dönnhoff did not make BAs or TBAs but harvested small amounts of thrilling Kabinetts, Spätlesen and Auslesen, mostly from botrytis-free grapes. “In Riesling, you do not need alcohol as a transporter of flavor,” he notes. “The Pinots [Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder] were a different story,” he says. “We had to select aggressively because there was some rot.” Picking started on 17 September with the Pinot varieties, and they had to hurry because ripeness advanced quickly. Dönnhoff is happy that nothing “slid into overripeness”–apart from the Auslesen–and notes that the wines have good acid structure with moderate alcohol and that sufficient moisture meant great extracts. He also puts his wines’ strikingly golden color down to extract—yet another stunning collection.
Our Note: This was for us the best wine on the table at the moment. The GGs will eclipse it, but will take years to get there. "This right now was the best single young riesling I have tasted all year and probably longer." (Tom). The Hermannshöhle Spatlese was next to it (and excellent) but this was completely showing off. Ginger, spice, sweet florals, orchard and stone fruit in layers that just kept going on and on, very persistent and energetic, long, long and fresh on the finish where the complexity still lingered on. Off dry and extremely exciting. I want to get some personally and head to the first Asian fusion restaurant I see!
The Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese 2023 is another jewel from the vineyards of the renowned Dönnhoff winery. The Oberhäuser Brücke is one of the most famous sites in the Nahe Valley and stands for wines of the highest quality and finesse. Classified as a late harvest, the grapes for this Riesling were harvested late in the season which gave them the opportunity to fully develop their flavors and natural sweetness. This gives the wine a rich and complex fullness of flavor, which is balanced by a lively acid structure. In the glass, the Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese 2023 presents itself with a fascinating bouquet of ripe peaches juicy apples and delicate floral notes, accompanied by a fine mineral note characteristic of the Nahe region. On the palate, the wine unfolds an impressive depth and length, with a harmonious balance between fruitiness, acidity and sweetness. Its complex structure and long finish make it an ideal companion for sophisticated dishes or simply for pure enjoyment in convivial company. The Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese 2023 is an outstanding example of excellence of this renowned winery and a true highlight for lovers of high-quality German Rieslings.
Monopole site for Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff – the historic Luitpoldbrücke (Luitpold Bridge), built during the period of Royal Bavarian administration, crosses the Nahe River directly adjacent to the village of Oberhausen. Opposite that bridge lies a small vineyard parcel that benefits greatly from the nearby river’s moderating influence. A distinctive microclimate is created, protecting the vines and promoting early flowering each year, which translates into a long growing season for the late-ripening Riesling grape.
The special soil composition, consisting of grey slate bedrock covered by a layer of loess loam, ensures an adequate water supply for the vines even during drought years. These conditions and ancient geology give rise to distinctive and elegant Riesling wines of great structure and concentration.
The sheltered valley location is also a perfect stage for grapes to freeze on the vine in cold weather, the necessary precondition for luscious ice wines.
These unusual conditions are the reason why this vineyard parcel, though measuring just 1.1 ha, is registered as one of the smallest protected sites on the Nahe.
Soil Type Grey slate bedrock covered by a layer of loess loam
Slope 0 – 15%
Aspect South, southwest
Yields Approx. 50 hl/ha
Age of Vine Approx. 25 – 45 years
Classification as VDP. GROSSE LAGE®
