'Les Greffiers' Brut Nature 2021
Bodet-Herold
Crémant de Loire
$32.99 6+ (code: 6saves2)
$34.99 US Low
*comp at $37
"Les Greffiers" is the latest of the bubble cuvées that Étienne Bodet produced with his wife Kim at within Bodet-Herold. It is a pure Chenin from a terroir of oxford marl soils located in the Saumur region. The wines are of course traditional method (champenoise) and is completely input-free (no added sulphite). The duration aging sur latte is 24 months. The disgorging took place in December 2023, completely without dosage (Brut Nature).
Definitely in a much higher class than what we can find generally in the Cremant “designation”. Etienne's experiences making wine in Champagne and a better understanding of his plots over the years has given him the ability and confidence to start new cuvees that stand out for their exceptional individuality. The bubbles are thick and frothy, with nice elegance, as is the aromatic profile of white fruits and a little hint of brioche. The palate is very dynamic, with nice acidity which brings tension and a nice salivating finish that is nice and chalky.
Grape: Chenin Blanc
Dosage: 0g/L - Brute Nature
Vinification: Whole cluster pressing at low pressure, separation of first press and end-of-press must, ambient yeast fermentation, blocked malolactic fermentation, briefly aged in stainless steel tank, bottled in spring, further aging on lattes for 24 months, low dosage.
Last year we took the Cremant wines Aerlinn rose and Physis Brut Nature for a spin and we were very impressed! A couple months ago The Wall Street Journal's Lettie Teague did the same and called the Physis her #1 affordable sparkling wine. (LINK)
Lettie Teague (WSJ): The terrifically energetic, lithe 2019 Bodet-Herold Physis Extra Brut Crémant de Loire ($38) was made from selected plots in Saumur, almost entirely from Chenin Blanc. The name Physis means “nature in harmonious order” according to winemaker Etienne Bodet, a Saumur native who has worked in both Burgundy and Champagne.
These Champagne method bubbles have a thick mousse on the pour with fine beaded bubble persistence. The weight is medium bodied, not surprising given the zero dosage (brut nature). What I thought worked particularly well was the depth of aroma and flavor considering the finesse and elegance of these wines. The aroma and flavor intensity were excellent, with a fresh and elegant finish.
