Scents of sweet orchard fruit, citrus zest and white flowers preface the 2022 Chablis Boucheron, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and giving wine with an ample core of sweet fruit and a saline finish. As readers may remember, this derives from a lieu-dit located between Le Vaillon and La Forest. ~William Kelley, RPWA

Chablis may not be the most dynamic of Burgundy's subregions, but Eleni and Edouard Vocoret are among the most ambitious new arrivals on the scene, and it was good to finally see full cellars at this address after the tiny quantities produced in 2021. The real expansion of the estate, with prime grand cru parcels, comes this year, but in 2022, there are already a number of new cuvées to take stock of, including one produced from vineyards farmed with high canopies without hedging, a technique that is popular among avant garde domaines in the Côte d'Or but which has yet to be much tested in Chablis (spoiler: it works). As I've written before, the Vocorets farm their vineyards without herbicides or pesticides and harvest by hand. In the cellar, vinification is in tank, followed by élevage in used barrels—very much in the mold of Vincent Dauvissat, one of the young couple's mentors.