Marsannay Blanc Chapitre 2022 93JM/93VM
Sylvain Pataille

(90-92) pts Vinous
The 2022 Marsannay Blanc Le Chapitre has presence on the nose—more than the Clos du Roi Blanc—although it does not quite possess the same tension. The well-balanced palate has a touch of white pepper on the entry, taut and fresh with ample salinity dragging you back for more. The harmony develops in the glass. Very fine.
- By Neal Martin on November 2023
The titular winemaker was away when I dropped in at their rather cozy cellar in Marsannay, but his brother Laurent, who incidentally makes wine under his own name, was on hand. He guided me through their wide range based around Aligoté, Pataille being the vanguard of the Les Aligoteur movement, not to mention his enticing array of site-specific Marsannay cuvées. Laurent Pataille looks much like his brother with those thick curly locks, initially more taciturn than Sylvain but soon chatting away. These are low-intervention wines with minimal and occasionally no use of sulfur. Many are aged for the first year in wooden foudres before being racked into used barrels. Pataille could not remember the exact picking date, except that harvest started in early September. I found a couple of cuvées just a little too natural for my liking, which set a few alarm bells ringing, while others were exceptionally fine and remain excellent value-for-money to boot.

87-89 pts Jasper Morris
Quite a dense yellow. Solid, ripe fruit without so much behind. A little reductive grape skin nose. The middle of the palate is not quite so well filled out as the other white Marsannays. Still good wine but I do not find as much character here. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted: November 2023.

Size: 1.05 ha (2.61 ac)
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vine Age: 1/3 of vines planted each in 1950, 1980, 1990
Terroir: Moderate to sleep slope, facing east. Light pink, gravelly (grèzes litées) soil. 270-300-meters elevation.
Viticulture: Certified organic, biodynamic methods
Vinification: 100% whole-cluster pressing, indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 18 months in barrel, low sulfur additions only at bottling.
Etymology: This vineyard was once owned by the Chapter (Chapitre in French) of Autun Collegiate Church. The vines and the woods that lie above them were owned by the Archbishop of Autun, who originally planted the vines there.
Site: Le Chapitre is 5 hectares (12.4 acres) with an elevation of 290 meters. It has a moderate to steep slope and faces east. When the Marsannay village appellation was created in 1987, the entire villages of Couchey and Marsannay, but only the southern part Chenôve was included. Because Le Chapitre lies north of the village, it was left out, yet, it is indisputably one of the greatest vineyards in this area. In his cellar, Sylvain pours it after his Clos du Roy. With the 2019 vintage, the INAO finally changed the classification of this vineyard from regional to village-level.
Soil: The gravelly, calcium-rich soil is light in texture and light, pinkish brown in color.
Geology: The majority of Le Chapitre sits on a thick layer of grèzes litées. This thick layer of unconsolidated limestone sits on top of the White Oolite limestone bedrock. Comblanchien limestone sits at the top of the slope above the vineyards and contributes to the slopewash.
Sylvain’s parcel: It is located on the northern side of the clos. However, he has just acquired another parcel within the small clos, which he calls his “Little Jewel.” Sylvain’s parcels are at around 290-meters elevation.